So, I was delighted to learn about Eclipse Orchestrator. It does create a whole script and executes it along a very tight timeline (needs exact location and time). The only thing that it needs is to remove the filter just before the second contact and put it back on after the third. I can do that!!!
Initially, I was thinking of using my 300mm lens for my Nikon camera (I can only use the D7000 as the D750 is not supported) and mount it on top of the TOA-130 scope and use the Mach1 mount to track. But then I realized that I could also use the TOA-130 scope itself with the Super Reducer to take images. The field of view should be perfect and the non-flat image shouldn't be too bad for these images (especially considering that the D7000 isn't a full frame camera!)
So, the equipment that I want to use is:
- TOA-130 scope with Super Reducer
- Nikon D7000 (connected with DSUSB from shoestring astronomy to short the time between exposures)
- Mach1 mount
- Eclipse Orchestrator
There are a number of things to figure out:
- I have an adapter from PreciseParts that should work (might be a few millimeters too short). Need to try it out and measure the distortion in the corners.
- Need to spend a lot of time trying out the script that Eclipse Orchestrator generates - maybe adding some frames as possible (this turned out to be very involved and I decided to write an extra blog post about it)
- How can the Mach1 mount track the sun over 2.5 hours?
- The AP driver has a "sun tracking" speed. Need to try that out and how accurately it keeps the sun centered.
- I could use APCC Horizons to accurately track the sun
- "proper" sun guiding solutions (like LuSol) might not work as the sun will be distorted.
- Need a new Serial-USB adapter (my old ones don't work with Windows 10)
Things I would have to do to set this up onsite:
- Good polar alignment (not a problem as I will use the TOA scope the nights before for astro imaging)
- Focus the sun extremely well
- Enter exact coordinates from GPS (unfortunately Eclipse Orchestrator can't read from my GPS - have to enter them manually)
- Keep NMEATime running while imaging to make sure that time is as accurate as possible (and disable Dimension4 - it shouldn't do anything as it won't find any internet. but better be on the safe side)
- Exchange my normal imaging train (flattener, filter wheel, CCD camera) in the morning with the Super Reducer and Nikon camera WITHOUT affecting polar alignment or such.
Received the new Serial-USB adapter - works. Yei!!!